 BetterPhoto Member |
Flash Photography: Preventing Red Eye When I try to shoot indoors with my long-range lens from any distance, I get red eye. I am unsure how to stop this. I am using a D70 with a AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1:2.8 ED lens. Thanks.
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Chris, Red-eye has little to do with lens; either focal length (zoom position) or aperture (f/number like f/2.8 etc.). Red-eye reduction is achieved by separating the flash from the camera. To accomplish this, you will need a flash unit capable to be dismounted from the camera. Additionally, you will need an interconnecting cord, flash-to-camera sync cord, long enough to accommodate two to three feet separation. An added benefit will be realized when the flash is dismounted, that facial shadows become more distinctive, giving an illusion of depth i.e. three dimension effect. Other countermeasures: Use bounce flash. Flash is directed at the ceiling, this gives the necessary separation plus shadows are softened by the vast expanse of the ceiling reflection. Your camera likely has built-in countermeasures. Red-eye mitigation is accomplished by a pre-flash. A short duration flash of low power precedes the main flash. The pre-flash is bright enough to cause the subject’s eyes to contract. With the pupils contracted to a tiny circle, the odds of red-eye are reduced. Likely your camera features red-eye reduction, check your camera manual. Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
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Dale M. Garvey |
Turn on more lights. The SB800 has a head that can tilt and a card that you can bounce the flash from. The red eye shutter release delays when the camera take a photo. It sends a preflash so you might not get the best shot. Most photo programs have red eye removal programs. Picasa from Google is free and works great. Therre are also pens that do the same thing.
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William Schuette |
"When I try to shoot indoors with my long-range lens from any distance, I get red eye." Chris, my take would be that as you get farther from your subject, the relative distance between the flah and the lens decreases which increases the possibility of red eye. As Alan pointed out, the solution is to get the flash off the same axis as the barrel of the lens. You didn't say what flash unit you have but if it is an SB-800, it will wirelessly control other Nikon flash units so that you can use off-camera flash without wires. A super clamp from Bogen lets you attach or stand the off camera flash almost anywhere. Bill
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