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Settings fot indoor sports pictures


I am just getting into photography and recently purchased a rebel 2000 and use a tamron 100-300 lens along with 28-80. I tried to take pictures at an indoor volleyball game and got some disappointing results. I used 400 speed film with appetures of 5.0 to 11.0 but my shutter speeds were extremely slow b/c I was in manual mode and tried to adjust to get correct exposure. I realize that it didn't make sense to use slow shutter speeds with sports, but how do I compensate for this and still get the correct exposure? I was using a tripod but my pictures came out really blurry due to slow shutter speeds (1/8 to 1/30). It seems dumb but I just wasn't sure how to use the seetings to get correct exposure in this mode? should I use TV mode next time or use the sports settings? any suggestions are greatly appreciated!


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February 21, 2001

 

John Davis
  Hi Kevin,
Shooting sports especially the fast moving types like volleyball, basketball etc. several thing conspire against the photographer. Normally these sports are indoor and the lighting is poor. The typical gym uses metal vapor lighting that gives a green cast. Some use flouresence lights and that gives a yellow cast. You will need a cyan filter for the first or color compensating filters (cc-nn) and you might be able to correct the second with a fl-w filter. If you use existing light.
Problem two with the lights is their strobe rate-they pulse at 60 cycles/second. A shutter speed less than 1/60 will get only part of a cycle-and this is 'not much light'.
Problem three is so subtle that it took me 15 years to figure out. It is the 'space problem'. Consider shooting a typical birthday party in somebodies home. Ceiling is 8 feet room is 10 ft by 14ft. Lots of reflecting surfaces! lights are typically incandesent and bright-all goes well. The typical volley ball court is about 40ft by 60 ft with a 10ft safety zone. The ceiling is 25 or more feet high! Nothing to 'contain the light'.

Here are my solutions:
Shoot the fastest film you can stand-ie learn to live with some graininess.
Pick a pushable film:
Tri-x (asa/iso 400) pushed to 1600 or beyond-for BW.
Supra 800 (asa/iso) at 800 or pushed as fast as 3200-Color prints.
Provia-400(F) pushed to 1600-3200-for slides.

Then you could also try a flash. Pick one with a large guide number 120-150 (in ft) Set the cameras max sync speed and figure an aperature for depth/distance desired. This will definitely 'stop' action.
TTL flashes would typically make this calc and setting for you.

Make friends with the coach and event-staff types. They will often let you get close. I typically sit/stand next to the referee up on the stand-the down ref moves from side to side so you need to be outside his 'work area', If you shoot from that side. Be aware of their need to see the action and remember that they typically wear a white shirt that severely overloads TTL Metering.


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February 24, 2001

 
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