 BetterPhoto Member |
Mastering the Exposure Meter I have just bought a Sekonic zoom master L-508 light meter as I am doing more and more serious work with larger consequences and want to feel secure in being able to calculate correct exposures instead of using my EOS 1N's (quite competent) evaluated meter function, while bracketing my exposures. Now, I have read the meter's manual and get an overall idea, fair enough. But, I feel that I am not competent enough yet concerning where exactly I should be pointing this sexy (and kind of intimidating) little device. I have read some stuff on the grey scale (Ansel Adams, etc) and understand it to a certain extent. I know that if I point it (1% spot) at an area in the scene that represents 18% grey, it will give me true blacks and whites across the scale. But where should I point it? Am I making sense so far? But, if I'm exposing an area that's middle grey, is it going to give me the right exposure? I can't quite get my brain around that one just yet. It makes perfect sense I know, but I can't accept it until I practise it and see it for myself. They say to use slide film as well when practising as what you shoot is what you get, unlike negative film that is adjusted when printed. Ok, it's time for an exposure scenario! Let's say for arguments sake that I am exposing an indoor swimming pool area, it's partly underground, but it's got strong light coming in directly on a 45 degree angle from a large glass brick window above it with reflections off the water directly below. Apart from the light from outside, it's quite dark even with very mild halogen spot lighting at intervals in the ceiling, and reflective lighting from white walls. I am shooting directly towards the strongest light source (i.e., the window) with 800 ASA, where pray-tell do I take the reading from to make the correct exposure (or the most accepted)? Because I am new to the light meter, (and of course trying to take a more calculated approach), should I learn to expose from an area that most represents middle grey, or because of the importance of the job and my limited practise time, should I learn to expose from an 18% grey card for the present time and learn when I can? Help! It's on my mind all the time! Ok, sorry for my question representing a small novel, but I have just got to master this subject. Cheers Doug Pearson.
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Jeff S. Kennedy |
I've got the L508. Its a great meter. You can trust it. One of the best things about it is that you can take incident readings. I take incident reading 75-80% of the time. With incident readings it doesn't matter what's 18% gray. Just measure the light. The only time I spot meter is when it gets really tricky. Like in high contrast lighting where the light may be coming from the side. I also use it in b&w so I can place the values where I want them. And I use reflective to check relative light ratios. But mostly incident covers most situations. A reflective reading of 18% gray is nothing more than an incident reading any way. Just be sure to point the meter towards the camera. Its that simple.
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