 BetterPhoto Member |
How Can I Photograph Mildew Growing on Canvas? I am a science teacher and am doing an experiment testing mildew inhibitors. I want to be able to photograph the samples to compare the surface areas covered by mildew. What kind of film/camera can I use to do this? Thanks! Laura Pierce
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Claire |
Well if you only want to get the size, or the mildew and some of its detail, macro photography will be good to get the detail that you want. This is best with any SLR camera because with such a short DOF (depth of field) you need to see exactly what you are photographing. This can be done in two ways if you have an SLR already or have use of one. There are macro lenses available, though expensive to buy if you can't get the use of one. A cheaper method is to use an extension ring on a prime lens such as a 50mm. This transforms the lens to a macro style. For film you would want fine grain for your photos so you should use 100 ISO or less and a tripod to remove any movement of the camera (a cable release also helps reduce any shake as well). For the actual type of film, if you what to show these to your class, slides will be better to show the differences because they have finer grain and therefore when shown with a projector you lose very little detail compared to a print film. Hope it helps you.
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Kimberley Stanley |
I'm very new to photography myself (just bought my first SLR less than a week ago) and I'm interested in learning how to capture macro images such as mold or the pistils of flowers, but I don't have the money for an expensive lens right now. What exactly is an extension ring and where can I find more information on it? Also what does the term "prime lens" mean?
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Claire |
An extension ring is a small sort of barrel that connects to the body of your SLR that moves the lens away from the body this helps with the magnification of your photos.(In between the lens and body of camera.) If you go to second hand photography stores you can buy them cheaply (I got one for $20!) Most camera stores will have knowledge of these rings but if you buy them new (and with auto focus) it will cost you a few hundred so if possible go to second hand stores. A prime lens is a lens with a fixed range like a 50mm lens. That has only that angle of view and it isn't changeable. Hope that helps a bit Kim, and all the macro photos that you set to do go well. I love that sort of photography and am also working on a limited budget, so many happy wishes on your way.
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John A. Lind |
A couple of additional points . . . Many also use longer lenses in the 85mm to 135mm focal length with extension tubes. This allows moving the camera farther away for the same magnification making lighting simpler (if the lens is too close it can shadow the subject). I prefer using the longer lenses if I can. Extension tubes come in different lengths and are often found in sets. One set I have has 7mm, 14mm and 25mm tubes. Another set has 12mm, 20mm and 36mm tubes. You can stack the tubes together for even more extension. The longer the extension, the closer you can focus, which allows higher magnification. Extension tubes are just that, a hollow tube with linkages to connect operation of the lens diaphragm to the camera body. If it's for an AF camera and lens, there are often electrical contacts to carry that through the tube also. Compared to a body or lens, they're pretty simple devices. The cheapest extension tube can sometimes be an old 2X or 3X teleconverter with the glass lens elements removed from it. Glass condition doesn't matter so long as the tube, its mounts, and linkages to the lens are in good condition and work without binding (not bent or dented). In fact, ones with scratched or chipped elements can be bought used for nearly nothing . . . the damaged glass makes them worthless as a teleconverter. This requires some fine jeweler tools, typically screwdrivers, to remove the glass lens elements from the teleconverter. After you remove the glass, you have an extension tube! -- John
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