BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: Problems with Photo Equipment - Tips & Tricks

Nikon SB-600 flash light problemo

So, Since then I have bought a Nikon SB-600 flash in learning how to get shots like them. It works well when I shoot in fluorescent lighting conditions. However, when I tried firing my flash in a yellowish litted room, my picture become as thought its lit by a fluorescent light. I still cant seem to get that nice sharp image with lighting similiar to the actual conditions.

What Must I do to get better images?? ALl help very much appreciated. I am using a Nikon D70s.

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January 16, 2006

-Collette-

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January 17, 2006

There are two aspects to getting good flash shots - having enough light come out of the flash unit (the power) and spreading that light properly for good effect (diffusion). As you have discovered, on-camera flash aimed directly at the subjects tends to give harsh lighting, much like photos taken at the beach at noon lead to harsh shadows under noses and chins (think of the sun as the world's biggest flash unit).

The SB600 can obviously throw light further than the on-camera flash, so your distance issue is somewhat solved (not completely, of course - it depends on how far the subject is from you). But having the flash sitting right on top of the camera still presents the light distribution problem - in orther words, harsh shadows, etc.

This is why you see pros using flash brackets and, often, diffusion units as well. The purpose of the bracket is to move the flash bulb further from the axis of the lens, which both reduces or eliminates red-eye problems as well as throws shadows down and to the side of the subject. The bracket is a simpler and more convenient alternative to an assistant following you around with a radio-controlled flash on a pole.

DIffusers, such as those by Gary Fong, Lumiquest, Sto-Fen, etc., are designed to spread the light more softly, akin to what an umbrella in a studio does. For people pictures, diffused light is consiered to make for more pleasant results (think of that same beach shot taken at noon on a cloudy day - no harsh shadows - a cloudy day is nature's diffusion system.

FInally, the color tinge has to do with the color of light sources. As you seem to know, tungsten lighting is "warm" - it tends towards the reddish cast. Daylight is cooler - and this is what flashes are designed to emulate. Flourescents and other exotic lights are all over the map - bluish, greehish, purpley, whatever. You could try to change the white balance in the camera if you are going to rely on the ambient light in the room, but typically the flash (balanced for daylight, remember) will provide the bulk of the illumination anyway so most times you can rely on daylight balance.

Of course, you could also get an Expodisc or one of those specialized cards with balck, white and grey regions on them - these are tools that can help to set proper while balance as well.

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January 17, 2006

I have tried chaning my WB and it really does help with the lighting and my pictures. I am still getting used to using the flash.

I read about the index card placed on the flash unit to ensure more direct light onto the subject. Does this card just have to be white? or does it have to be white and reflective (etc. glossy finish). What type of card work best if you have any idea.

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January 18, 2006

If you're trying to go on a budget (the diffusers I mentioned above are all about $40 each, give or take) then I would think a matte white foamcore board would be the best - about 5x7" in size or so, affixed to the flash head so that when the head is pointing to the ceiling the card faces forward by 45 degrees.

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January 18, 2006