 Jennifer D. Brandon |
Store Film Developing
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John P. Sandstedt |
If you used a B&W film like Kodak Tri-X, you may have been lucky. If you used a chromagenic film [by Kodak or Ilford,] it's been designed to be developed with C-41 [color] chemistry. Hence, you can get you prints done on a one-hour system. However, Wal-Mart and most other one-hour services, that primarily develop color print film, use color print paper. That's the reason for the brownish quality. Negatives use to make B&W prints using B&W chemistry and paper will result in traditional B&W prints.
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Jennifer D. Brandon |
Thank you! That totally makes sense. I just wish I could get my enlargements to look like the original prints. I appreciate your taking the time! Take care!
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Jennifer, Once upon a time Black & White films were developed and printed locally. As the popularity of color negative films grew, the volume of B&W films fell to a trickle. At some point it was no longer feasible for local labs to maintain both types of developing and printing machinery. The task of processing and printing B&W is handled by regional specialty labs. Most mass merchandisers collect B&W and outlab it. Manufacturers such as Ilford and Kodak strived to make a B&W film compatible with the color negative process. Chromagenic film was marketed. This film yields a B&W negative accomplished by substituting neutral dyes for color dyes. Chromagenic papers compatible with the color paper process followed. This combination allowed the local color lab to remain in the B&W processing arena. The dyes of Chromagenic materials never achieved the rich black that is the hallmark of the conventional silver based B&W process. Chromagenic films and papers are best described by their dark-olive tone. While any color lab can process and print Chromagenic materials, most will not inventory Chromagenic paper. Instead these labs tend to print on color paper which with its cyan – magenta –yellow dye. While it is feasible to adjust a modern color printer to make a reasonably natural print from a B&W negative on color paper, maintaining the adjustment requires super-human effort. The result is that most labs output a non-natural print, generally leaning towards the sepia. These were the prints you received. When it comes to making enlargements, the local lab will not even attempt to maintain such an adjustment enlargement width papers. They will outlab this work. The outlab will have been chosen because has the capability to maintain dual processing machinery. Thus the B&W enlargement will almost always be on conventional B&W paper which yields rich blacks. Alan Marcus
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Jennifer D. Brandon |
Thank you Mr. Marcus. You just saved me another trip and a lot of $$$$. Your response was most helpfull! Take care! :)
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Andy |
Hi Jennifer, what kind of B&W film did you use? Is it the Kodak BW T400CN for regular C41 color processing? If so, you have a choice of standard B&W print or Sepia print (brownish tone) and so often the lab will give you the sepia print by default. You can have them reprint (usually no fee) with B&W. If it's regular B&W film, then John and Alan are right.
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Jennifer D. Brandon |
Hi Andy! The film is just the plain 'ol b&w Kodak film you purchase at Walmart or Walgreens. Nothing special. I am wondering, if maybe I took the negatives back in and typed out a specific request to have the film printed on the color print paper and include in the envelope one of the original 4x6's for an example, I wonder if whatever lab the store sent it out to, would be able to fulfill my requests? You know, specifically requesting the color print paper? It might be worth a shot. I haven't decided just yet. Thanks Andy!! :)
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi again Jennifer, Take a look in the yellow pages, find a lab that handles B&W. Take them the B&W negatives and ask for enlarments. Ask to have the prints tones sepia or brown. The lab will have samples to show you. Toned prints are an industry standard. Additionally, you can have the enlargements you got from Wal*Mart toned. You can get a bottle of sepia toner at a camera store or order it on line. B&W prints will accept tonner at any time. Alan Marcus
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Andy |
Hi Jennifer, if you bought your B&W from Walmart or Walgreens, I am pretty sure that's the one for C41 - regular color print processing - type film. Take the negatives back to Walmart/Walgreens and ask them for sepia tone reprint. Also the film type is imprinted on the edge of the negatives. It should be T400CN or something like that. Hope this helps.
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Alan N. Marcus |
Kodak Sepia II Warm Toner (Makes 1 Quart) - $5.69 Kodak Sepia Toner 1qt - Kodak 1691757 - $2.95 Place prints in plastic dish - tray - place in sink under slow running water for 30 minutes. Make up a quart of sepia and soak prints - a few minutes then wash. It's fun - it's easy - you will have a blast. Alan Marcus So easy so safe make up a quart place in plastic
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Jennifer D. Brandon |
I'm very interested in both options. thank you both! I think I might try the soaking in toner option first. does it matter if the prints are glossy or matte? soak 30 min. in water first, huh? I have to RUN the water for 30 min.? I'm gonna give it a try!
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Alan N. Marcus |
Conventional B&W prints are made using a silver based system. Photo paper is much like film except the light sensitive coating (emulsion) is coated on a paper base whereas film is a plastic or acetate base. The light sensitive coating is held in place by a binder (glue) made from purified gelatin. Gelatin is used because it is transparent and swells when wet. In the swollen state, fluids can soak (percolate) through the binder. When the print dries, the gelatin shrinks back to it original size. The paper base is wood pulp and very porous. The wood cells often retain residual chemicals. Most modern papers are resin (plastic) coated to seal the wood cells and make them waterproof. Nevertheless residual chemicals are the enemy. You are to place the prints in a try and wash in slow speed running water for 20-30 minutes. This water rinse swells the gelatin and washes away any residual processing chemicals. The B&W image is made up of tiny flakes of pure silver. These clump together and block light as it transverses through the emulsion. You see black because at that point the silver content is high you see gray because there is less silver at that spot. You see white because there is no silver. Toning is a method used to change or replace the silver. Sepia adds sulfur to the silver. This is an artificial tarnishing process. The toned print is far more stable because the now silver sulfide image has gone to chemical completion and is inert. Mix the concentrated toner per instructions that come with the package. This is a very safe chemical, handle with care however, wash your hands. Use plastic tinsels and bottle and tray. You can use a cheep plastic paint tray from Home Depot. The toning process is carried out in normal room light. Place the wet prints in the solution and watch the action. Wash the prints in running water 20 minutes after the toner bath to remove residual chemicals. Lay out the prints on paper towel and allow to air dry. Enjoy the show. Alan Marcus
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Wow, it's been a long time since I've posted here but I'm back. I don't think you really need to do anything overly complicated here. I do assume that you bought the kind of "new" black and white film that can be developed and printed JUST LIKE COLOR film. That measn that yes, they can do everything at walgreens or walmart. I would say that if the people knew anything about what they're doing, you could go back, show them an example of how you like it and ask them to print like that. Though, you could probably just ask for "sepia" prints. That gives the older, brownish look. I know every walmart supercenter should be able to do this easily. It's just a press of a button for them. Although, if you did want the best service that you could get, some places, pro places, might be able to print on true black and white paper and tone...though it would cost quite a bit more and might not match what you got the first time. Hope this helps!
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Christopher A. Walrath |
Yeah, Black and White at a local department store and getting consistently GOOD prints from it is a crap shoot at best. Spend the little extra and go to a local lab or photography store and get it done right. Or get your B&W developed like I do, no prints, negs only, for around 3 a roll, scan them into your PC, reverse the color of the scan, adjust contrast and brightness so you can tell what they are and save your economical contact sheet. Then you can order the prints you want later.
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