 Andrew Laverghetta |
push processing B&W I've been looking all over kodak's website and I can't find a link to push processing their film. I think I printed some charts at one point but I'm not sure where it is now. I've got Kodak 400 Tri-X and would like to push it to 800. I'm using Kodak's TMax developer with the whole bottle just mixed to yield a gallon of developer. Thanks for your help. I'll continue to look but wanted toms extra help.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
33% extra time for each f/stop.
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Andrew Laverghetta |
so that would be about 8 minutes? It says normal would be 6 minutes in Tmax developer for the 400 ISO film. Being pushed 1 stop (set at ISO800) It will add about 2 minutes? Thanks! I'm hoping that it will come out decent. I've already taken one roll like that and it was a studio portrait set up. It was mostly a high key thing so I don't think there will be as much shadow detail to be lost? Thanks again for your help. -Andrew
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Jon Close |
Kodak Tech. Pub. F-4017 - Tri-X Films has the needed data for various developers and push processing. Also, Kodak Tech. Pub. J-86 T-MAX Developers. They indicate that processing Tri-X at ISO 400 and 800 is virtually the same.
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Andrew Laverghetta |
So what will my results be like if I were to use the same developing time? The negatives might be a little light and I would need to use a higher contrast filter for RC paper? Is the lattitude THAT wide that it can make great photos without adjusting developing time? I had underexposed some fuji 1600 color print film before and I didn't really like the results so much from a pretty good lab just because they seemed darker. I guess they might be better if I could print them myself but will it still look natural? Since the large reason is for portraits, I want to make sure they look pure. Do you think it may be beneficial to up the developing time by maybe 30 or 45 seconds? Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I just want to make sure that I know what will give me the best results. -Andrew
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
A change in exposure times with the enlarger, and maybe a 3&1/2 contrast filter instead of a 3. At first I was going to say shorter exposure time, but a 3&1/2 is a darker filter, so if you use that you may have the same or longer time.
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Ok, just going over everything to myself and to make sure it's right. I can process the ISO400 Tri-X that I shot at 800 as normal because it is only one stop. I have bracketed with TMAX 100 by 1 stop and have still had printable negatives underexposed by a full stop. Shooting at 800 instead of 400 is just like shooting at 400 with -1 exposure comp? Thanks Andrew
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
yeah
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