 Kathy L. Pollick |
Landscape - film suggestion I know I asked this a few months ago, but can't find the question. I purchased the Portra film to do people pictures, but I can't remember the name of the film that was best for outdoor scenery. Seems to me it started with a "V", but forgot to write it down. With fall coming, I want to get a good quality film for taking leaf pictures. Also, I only have one camera. And most of my film comes in either 24 or 36 frames. Does it matter if I have portra film in & havn't used it all & I need to go outdoors & take outside shots? And vice versa... I hate to just take the film out & ruin all the pictures I have left, just to change the film. That gets expensive.
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doug Nelson |
Velvia is a super saturated slide film, now a 100 speed, as the old 50 was discontinued. I like Provia 100 for its natural color. If its saturation you want, underexpose a hair or shoot in early morning or late evening. Don't waste the film you have, just finish it up. Consider a cheap used camera body for a backup, loaded with another film you like to use, maybe negative film, maybe in a 400 speed.
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Kathy L. Pollick |
Oh yea I forgot that Velvia is a slide film. Can you have those put on a disc for use in a computer? As I don't have a slide machine, what would be the best film to get for outdoor scenery? I want something I can edit & email also. Thanks much.
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Jon Close |
Per FujiFilm USA: "It is anticipated that Fujichrome Velvia 50 will remain on the market into calendar year 2006." Portra, like other print film, can give more saturated colors if rated 1/3 to 1 stop slower (ie. +1/3 to +1 exposure compensation). Also will respond to color enhancing filters (aka "didymium") that are popular with fall colors, such as Tiffen Enhancing® or
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Jon Close |
Sorry, messed up the link. Tiffen Enhancing®, or Hoya Intensifier. Similar to Velvia, Kodak professional E100VS gives saturated colors for landscapes, as does the old reliable Kodachrome 64. Get it while you can, like Velvia, it's not long for this world. :-( Print films with extra saturated color includes Kodak's Portra 160VC and Ultra Color 100, and Agfa's Ultra 100.
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George Anderson |
Slide films scan just fine. Didymium filters are great for red or orange subjects (fall foliage), but not with print film. Unless you are painstakingly instructing the operator at the lab, they will almost certainly screw up the colors when the machine attempts to compensate for what it views as a color shift. Even then, it can result in some strange effects. With slide film, however, an enhancing filter can really pop those leaves. A warming filter or warming polarizer can also work well. I too prefer Fuji Velvia and Provia slide films, but I have to say that that Kodak 160UC does have great color as well.
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Kathy L. Pollick |
I'm new to filters. I just purchased a circular polarizing filter for outside. I don't know what a didymium filter is. I also don't have a scanner that works with my current computer... (too old)... so I can't scan right now either. Can the photo lab scan the slide prints onto a disc for me?
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George Anderson |
A polarizer can be useful for saturating color in landscapes. Didymium filter - aka Enhancing Filter. Enhances and saturates certain colors, notably red and orange. Some people like the effect, some don't. Warming filter - Various amber or straw-colored filters that warm or 'correct' bluish tones of bright daylight or open shade, or to slightly change (warm) color rendition of a particular lens manufacturer. Warming polarizer - Combination of a warming filter and a circular or linear polarizer in one single filter in order to reduce bulk & chances of vignetting while obtaining effects of both filter types. Any good library book on 35mm photography should have the basics on filtration and film types. B&H Photo will send you a catalog on 35mm photography with a huge section on filters and film, loaded with information from the manufacturers on how filters work and why. Or you can contact the filter makers yourself. Slide film can be scanned directly from itself, just like a film negative, by a scanner, either your own or by a lab with a drum scan. Many photo labs (not mini-labs) will scan the film and send you a disc, the cut and mounted slides, and prints made from the slides, whatever you wish. With color slide film you get exactly what you took at the scene, with no correction by the lab. Any warts (overexposure particularly) will show up, but you also won't be cheated out of the the enhancements you programmed into your shot (reduced exposure, particular film color balance, filtration, etc.)
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