 Don Curry |
macro I am shooting macro and my shots are not as sharp and crisp as I would like. I use a Nikkormat FT2 with a 55mm Micro-Nikkorlens. I also use a Nikkor 75-300mm 4.5-5.6 af on a Nikon N90s. For the best sharpness do I need large or small apeture? Both cameras are mounted on a Bogen tripod for these pictures.Any suggestions? Thanks, Don
|
|
|
|
||
|
Brendan Knell |
How close are you trying to get? You might be trying to get too close. Your 55mm's closest focusing distance is 10inches(At least that's what the specifications at B&H photo said).
|
|
|
|
||
|
Bob Cammarata |
I have a 55 Micro-Nikkor 2.8, and Brendon is correct about getting to within 10". Use the smallest aperture your light will allow. Depth of field at that distance can truly be measured in millimeters. Use your camera's timer or a remote release to minimize fuzziness due to movement of the camera from mirror-slap during exposure,..especially when shooting between 1/8 and 1/30 second. (1/15 second is the worse).
|
|
|
|
||
|
Bob Cammarata |
...Oops,..Correction to my previous post: A remote won't eliminate movement from the mirror flipping up, only the timer will do that. (A remote release IS benificial if you are a bit shakey on the shutter button though.) My main point was that ALL movement is magnified the closer you get.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Don Curry |
Thaks for your help. I will try your suggestions. The 55mm micro-Nikkor that I have is a 70s vintage non-AI. It will focus much closer than 10 inches. I also have a M2 extention tube. I think for sharpness I need to do two things that you suggested. I need to open the appeture and the Nikkormat has a switch to close the mirrow prior to the shot. I have been using a remote release. Thanks,
|
|
|
|
||
|
David A. Bliss |
If your camera has mirror lock-up (your being generic, if anyone's..) use it when you have a very long focal length or are shooting macro without a very fast shutter speed (more than 1/500). I can tell you from experience that it really does make a difference.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Kerry L. Walker |
Don, I think you mean you need to close the aperature if you want more DOF. Nikkormat - now that's a blast from the past. Great camera!
|
|
|
|
||
|
Don Curry |
Thanks Kerry, you are correct. I was thinking one thing and typing another. I bought the Nikkormat while in college in the 70s. I just recently got back into photography and dug it back out. It has a micro-Nikkor 55mm 3.5 lens and a M2 extension. It is fun to play with. Don
|
|
|
|
||
|
Kerry L. Walker |
Re: saying one thing and typing another - been there, done that myself.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Michael H. Cothran |
Don - I still own a Nikkormat FTn, several F2's, and two 55/3.5's. In my opinion, there is nothing on the market that will give you results any better than your 55 Micro. I use the 55/3.5 Ai lens almost everyday in my studio on a professional level - although it is now mounted to a Fuji S2 Pro digital body. If your film images are consistently blurry, I would first look to the camera body for the problem. The distance between the lens and your film plane, and the lens and your mirror mechanism/prism need to be exact. These are carefully checked for accuracy during manufacturing. It's possible that your mirror mechanism may have shifted out of whack at some time to the point where when the image is in focus in the viewfinder, it is not in focus on the film plane. My suggestion would be to borrow another Nikon body, and shoot a roll of film with it and your 55. This should tell you quickly whether or not the problem is your Nikkormat. By the way, the optimum optical quality of the 55 micro is achieved @ f11, at a distance of 1:10. The use of any other f-stop would only be beneficial when you needed more or less DOF.
|
|
|
|
||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||