BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: Definition of Photography Terms

Bracketing and Film

Now, I understand the concepts behind bracketing and exposure latitude, but what I don't understand is why you would NOT want to use full stop bracketing for transparency film. Correct if I am wrong, but when you process a given image, it can be developed within the range of its exposure latitude. This means that the range of "correct exposure" for transparency film is narrower than that for BW or color negative film.

It would seem to me then, that using 1 stop of bracketing in their direction would increase the range of correct exposure, whereas the 1/3 bracketing would keep the range of correct exposure limited.

I think I am missing something here with my logic otherwise why would most photographers say that 1/3 or 1/2 bracketing is necessary for transparency film?

Thanks.

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November 25, 2003

Here's my reasoning: A slide and a negative are both pieces of film, but they really are not the same thing.
Actually, the best comparison here is between a slide (slide film's "final" product) and a print (negative film's "final" product).

For example, most negative-film photographers are verrrrry fussy about the "look" of their favorite photos: A print that's a little too dark isn't good enough, and a print that's a little too light isn't good enough either. "Just right" is what they're after ... thus, the "acceptable" light-to-dark range for a given print is really very narrow!

This goes for slides too: Like a print, a slide that's just a little too dark or one that's just a little too light will likely NOT be good enough. As a result, the "perfect" exposure - meaning "perfect" for me! - may be only a half-stop away from an exposure that's "not quite right." So it's possible that bracketing in one-full-stop increments may miss that "ideal" exposure entirely!

Interestingly, I don't just bracket for "insurance" - i.e., to make sure I get the right exposure in a tricky-exposure situation (say, backlighting). In some cases, I'll bracket because I'm not sure what "look" I'm after. For example, when I photograph storm-cloud scenes, heavy fog or twilight conditions, I may bracket to see whether I will prefer a lighter-toned slide (high-key for a "light" look) or a darker-toned slide (for a more "moody" look) ... or maybe even both! Bracketing in these situations enables me to compare ... and, once again, the "right" look may fall within a one-full-stop range.

I hope this makes sense, Laljit!

Kerry

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November 25, 2003

I think I understand the reasoning for the 1/2 and 1/3 bracketing of slides a little more given the context and source of the answer. Correct me if I am wrong, but for the advanced photographer, bracketing is used for greater artistic expression and even the subtlest of exposure adjustments can make a difference in the mood and style of the image. As the bracketing is not used for "insurance" it is not necessary to have broader and safer bracketing provided by 1 stop bracketing.

In contrast, for the novice photographer, bracketing serves more of an "insurance" and broader latitude provided by a 1 stop may be more appropriate.

Also, is the explanation in consideration of the fact as a professional photographer you are unlikely to have your work "corrected" by the lab? I have found that when I use only 1/3 bracketing, the final slides are identical as the lab has corrected the slides.

Am I understanding the concept of bracketing clearly or still off?

If I am correct, than does it mean that when bracketing is used for "insurance" purposes, it should be in 1 stop increments; whereas, if it is for artistic purposes and the lab is not going to make corrections, 1/2 or even 1/3 bracketing would be appropriate?

Thanks again for the informative response.

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November 25, 2003

- "Corrections" by the lab: Are you referring to the developing of the film, rather than the making of prints? If it's film developing only, then a roll of color slide film is always developed in one way; thus, nothing should be "corrected," since the development times for slide film are standard. There are some exceptions to this - i.e., if you mistakenly shoot at the wrong ISO, or if you wish to gain a stop or two of speed by using a higher ISO than the film's recommended ISO ... then you must inform the lab, so it can vary the development time for that roll to compensate for the ISO switch.

- My recommendation for slide-film "insurance" in tricky exposure situations is for 1/2-stop increments on both sides of what the photographer considers the "best" exposure. That would be up to about one stop in both directions (in 1/2 stop increments, for a total of two extra photos in each direction). If you aren't confident of your exposure, a one-full-stop increment is far better than nothing ... although that one-full-stop difference might miss the "perfect" exposure if it's at an in-between interval.

Unfortunately (for me), my Nikon F5 brackets in 1/3-stop increments ... and sometimes the difference of 1/3 is not very noticeable ... although a 2/3 difference DEFINITELY is noticeable. So, in tricky situations - AND in "artistic expression" situations - I'll go two or three exposures in each direction in 1/3 stops ... because that's the best choice for my camera. (If I could re-program my F5 to bracket in 1/2 stops, I would!)

- By the way, I have another "rule" when it comes to exposure, bracketing, and any other photographic technique: The BEST guide is always yourself! Thus, if a certain technique works for you - even if it is NOT the "recommended" approach - then go for it!!

Kerry

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November 26, 2003

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November 26, 2003