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How to get good enlargements using 35mm


I'm just bought my first SLR (Pentax ZX-7 with 28-80 lens)and am wondering how to get the best enlargements. I'm just starting out in photography, so it will be awhile before I begin shooting in manual mode. Right now I'm just shooting in full auto mode until I learn more, but I was asked to attempt a family photo outdoors to produce a decent 8x10. It will likely be in partial shade and I was planning on using IS0-100 with a tripod and a wireless remote (will shoot full roll and select best for enlargement). Am I being too optimistic? Any advice would be very helpfull. Thanks in advance. Rob


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June 30, 2002

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  Rob, I don't think your being too optimistic. You're doing good by using a tripod and remote release. The other prime factor affecting sharpness is your lens. Typically, fixed focal length lenses are sharper than zooms but if your lens is a good one it may be just fine. Getting the exposure right will help, though as well. It's not that hard. Go to the library or a book store and you should find info that will help you with the exposure. Other than that, try to set up the group in open shade. Avoid any direct sunlight spilling into the frame.


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June 30, 2002

 

John A. Lind
  Robert,

Since you intend to make larger prints from these (8x10), here are some suggestions regarding film:

Low-end (inexpensive) consumer films such as Kodak Gold 100 (now called "Bright Sun") are relatively grainy compared to some others of the same or higher speed. While this isn't much of a factor in small 3-1/2x5 or 4x6 prints, when making larger ones it becomes one to consider.

Kodak's Royal Gold family of films are noticeably finer grained in larger prints. For a special shoot such as the one you've described, Kodak's Portra 160NC, Portra 160VC and Supra 100 are also much finer grained than Gold 100. Even Portra 400NC/VC and Supra 400 are finer grained than Gold 100 !! Portra and Supra are professional films; Supra is a "general purpose" film and Portra is geared for portraiture and wedding work. One of the differences is in color saturation level.

About the enlargement level:
When you shoot this, remember that a 35mm camera creates an image with a 2:3 aspect ratio. A 4x6 print theoretically can contain the entire negative from edge to edge. The entire film frame when enlarged to the type of size you want requires an 8x12 print, not an 8x10 which has a 4:5 aspect ratio and is "less rectangular" in shape. Remember this when you compose the photographs and leave some empty space along the long dimension to be cropped off in making the 8x10. If you want to get an idea of what this looks like, take a 4x6 print and mask an inch off of the long dimension it to make it a 4x5. This is something you should also do when you get the 4x6 proofs back so that you're not asking the printer to try to make an 8x10 photograph from subject material that won't fit into it (along the long dimension).

-- John


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July 04, 2002

 
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