Meili |
portaits in winter of snow I have been asked by a friend to take some family portaits. I think they may want them outside in the snow. I don't have a lot of experience in this kind of situation. I was just wondering if anyone has any tips for me when photographing people in the snow. perhaps what film to use, any filters I should use, what time of day is best, how to meter. really any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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John P. Sandstedt |
The most important thing to remember, if you're shooting color - especially, is that your camera's meter is looking for 18% gray. White snow will appear gray unless you open up your exposure 1 1/2 to 2 atops. Have your subject wear bright colors, not just classic black snow suits. If that's what they own, have them use red hats or gloves or scarves. You might or might not need filters. Polarizers are always good - but, you lose up to two stops of esposure. Remember that as you correct for the snow. The camera's meter will give you the correct exposure for the polarizer. You still have to open up to correct for the 18& gray metering. Use slide film if you can, but print film if you're looking for multiple prints. I standardized on Fuji ISO 400 a long time ago, but many folks prefer Kodak. You won't need ISO 400, however, if there's sun. In snow, I also like Agfa.
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Pete H |
Hi Meili; John has already correctly identified the #1 problem that plaques novices when shooting in a snow scene. What you are doing is actually quite difficult to do properly. To expose snow, you DO indeed have to open up about 1 stop, but now you have another problem; your subjects will be overexposed. Are you shooting digital or film? Film has greater latitude in exposure. Problem #2) On a sunny day, snow has a superb ability to pick up the blue color from the sky. If you can shoot your photo in the shade, do so. The other upside of shooting this way in snow is that snow on a sunny or bright day is..well; BRIGHT!...Squinting people is not very complimentary. Probably the best way to photograph people in a snow scene is with daylight balanced fill flash..and as strong as you can get. Clothing: Dark clothing is best unless you really know what you are doing. Finally, if you plan on post editing digitally, you will want your subjects to be tightly grouped..(i,e) no light gaps between the people in the group; this way you can "level" adjust the snow. If you can let us know what camera you are using etc..This will help us refine down what you might want to try. All the Best, Pete
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
"To expose snow, you DO indeed have to open up about 1 stop, but now you have another problem; your subjects will be overexposed" If you expose the snow, right, everything else will be right too.
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Pete H |
Good lord! How untrue! Spot meter the snow..Spot meter the subjects.. NOT the same reading..sorry, you can't have both perfectly exposed with one shot..unless of course you have scrims, Gobos, a ton of flash power and Hi flash sync speeds!..Basically a pro commercial type shoot! Your photo will look like the infamous pic of shooting someone in front of a window w/o a flash..Nice siloettes! How ridiculous. Pete ..and sorry..Typo..I meant underexposed in my original post.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
"Spot meter the snow..Spot meter the subjects.. NOT the same reading" Maybe you got thrown off by the extra comma. Expose the snow right, you expose everything else right. True. Spot meter the snow, of course you get different readings than from the subject. You spot meter the snow, you don't get a correct reading for the snow. You expose the snow correctly, you get a correct exposre for everything else. Same light shining on the snow, shines on the people. Bright white of snow, makes a camera meter reading off. Which is why the snow looks dull and the people look dark. You expose the snow correctly, the snow looks white, the people look like they're supposed to look. One shot, no scrims, no commercials. Replace your gasket, you go see how your own pictures look.
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Pete H |
My apologies Gregory.. I misread your comments.. I need to stop reading this group so late at night :)
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Meili |
thank you so much for all your help and input. I will have to use film as my camera is a canon rebel. I think I have a better understanding of what to expect. thanks
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Bob Cammarata |
John's advice to have them wear something red is good. Bright red meters well and will produce whiter whites and a good overall exposure of everything else in the same light. If one were to take a spot-meter reading off a red hat or scarf, then off the snow to the left or right of it,...the meter would indicate +1 to +2 over-exposure, depending upon how brightly lit the scene is. On a clear day, you can also meter off the deep blue sky opposite from the sun. This is a proven method for capturing acurate snowscapes. For shooting in shade,...Beware the Blue.
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Rebecca A. Steed |
I have a suggestion from what I learned in a class, but please correct me if I'm wrong, because I would hate to misinform. I suggest metering off the blue sky if you are taking pix on a clear day and metering off your bare hand if it's a cloudy day. This will probably equal one stop as everone has suggested, but for my simple mind, this is easiest. If it is a clear day, try to avoid taking the pictures at mid-day (that is really any time of the year). Morning or evening is best for this condition, or, as someone else suggested, in the shade. I hope I helped.
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Bob Cammarata |
The blue sky trick works with a DEEP BLUE,...not light blue or or a hazy, thin-cloud type of sky. A post-frontal clear blue,...with the sun behind you and at an angle to the horizon works best. You can also use your palm as suggested in any light but you should check it first. Definately bracket though to make sure.
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